Skin Concern

Lin from NZCI: Corneotherapy for skin confidence

Lin from New Zealand Corneotherapy Institute
We chat with Lin, multi-award-winning Skin Professional, corneotherapist, and founder of the New Zealand Corneotherapy Institute, about achieving skin confidence through fixing the topical microbiome.

Why Corneotherapy?

My fascination with the science of the skin’s microbiome has led me to center my approach around Corneotherapy, focusing on the physiology behind the skin’s outermost layer — the Stratum Corneum, which is responsible for the barrier function and for orchestrating the internal chemistry of deeper skin layers.

Corneotherapy treats the root of the problem, rather than superficial symptoms, while still being gentle, minimising irritating side effects often caused by topical pharmaceuticals.

Healthy, functioning Stratum Corneum achieved through Corneotherapy techniques can help age proof your skin, manage rosacea and atopic skin conditions, treat inflammation and acne.

What can disrupt skin biome?

The reasons for Stratum Corneum to malfunction include genetics, emotional stress, poor diet, exposure to chemicals and irritants, and incorrect, inconsistent skincare regimen.

Having too many skincare products can not only be unnecessary but also potentially damaging to the skin. Firstly, it is hard to be consistent with the routine having too many products, secondly, it is crucial to check the ingredients for any potential irritants or toxic substances.

Skincare ingredients such as harsh preservatives, parabens, synthetic dyes, and fragrances often impair the local microbiome and weaken the bonds between the Stratum Corneum scales, making the skin more sensitive and prone to inflammation. Preservatives are bactericidal substances, keeping the microorganisms away from a product, however, they may act in a similar manner with the skin’s local biome, shifting the equilibrium in favour of pathogens and opportunistic bacteria. Emollients or sulfates (SLS, SLES) can break the lipid-based bonds between the Stratum Corneum scales, which can decrease the skin’s natural ability to self-protect and self-regulate.

Another strong factor that can be damaging to skin’s resilience is frequent exfoliation and strong chemical peels. Our skin only benefits from mild exfoliation every couple of weeks, just because the healthy top layer contains enzymes that facilitate and regulate self-exfoliation.

The final big one is hot water from the shower directed at the face. Hot water may strip the lipids (natural oils) from the skin, leaving it with a compromised acid mantle and incorrect pH, which may create a favourable environment for harmful bacteria.

How do you help your clients restore the barrier function?

Good things take time, and that is very true when it comes to balancing skin biome, acid mantle, and barrier function.

Firstly, we start with a skin analysis and a thorough history of skincare, lifestyle, diet, and levels of emotional stress. To conclude a consultation, we set an achievable skincare goal and begin to customise the treatment plan.

In-clinic treatments include individually tailored combinations of topical actives and hands-on techniques. Our absolute favourite is the newest O-Biome PDA Enzyme Lymphatic facial by O COSMEDICS, which is based on the unique properties of the product to simultaneously aid in restoring the biome,  detoxifying, eliminating edema (swelling), brightening, and refining skin texture.

We always follow with a homecare prescription to work towards the skin goal and maintain the skin in between the clinical treatments. Because a fresh skin layer takes around 4-5 weeks to develop, we recommend having in-clinic treatments every month to achieve the best results.

In our treatments, we emphasise the purity of the products (free from irritants, parabens, and ingredients harsh on the skin), medical-grade, result-driven active ingredients, cruelty-free formulas, and minimal or no downtime.

Lady receiving O COSMEDICS Pro Dermal Active Treatment
In the world of filters and ‘air-brushed’ skins, we aim at achieving healthy, resilient, correctly functioning skins, because we strongly believe in skin health being fundamental for overall well-being and quality of life.