Ingredients Glossary
Wondering what the difference is between AHA’s and BHA’s and what the heck retinol is? You’re not the only one. Skincare ingredients can be overwhelming and confusing. Here, you can discover what common and specific active ingredients do and how they work.
A
Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)
These water-soluble acids are derived from organic sugars, with glycolic acid (from sugar cane) and lactic acid (from milk). They are gentle exfoliants that work primarily to remove dead skin cells, by dissolving the bonds between skin cells, resulting in a smoother more hydrated skin surface and a reduction in the visible signs of sun damage and age. They also promote healthy collagen synthesis and regulate pigment production.
ACB Fruit Mix
A gentle Alpha Hydroxy Acid (see AHA). This product can improve moisturisation while simultaneously increasing the production of structural components, such as collagen. Resulting in a smooth and rejuvenated complexion.
Acetyl Octapeptide-3
A peptide which offers anti-ageing benefits, and is a safer, cheaper, and milder alternative to Botulinum Toxin as it topically targets the same wrinkle-formation in a very different way. This product helps to reduce wrinkles on the forehead and around the eyes. See Peptides for more info.
Alpha Arbutin
Naturally occurring antioxidant, botanical active derived from the bearberry plant also known as Alpha arbutin. Clinically referred to as Hydroquinoneβ-D-glucopyranoside, Alpha Arbutin has been clinically proven after many years of effective trials to significantly inhibit melanin formation within melanocytes and lighten dark spots, solar lentigines, uneven skintone, post inflammatory hyperpigmentation and melasma.
Azeloglicina
Natural alternative to Azelaic Acid created by the acylation (chemical reaction) between Azelaic Acid and Glycerin. It is an active and effective ingredient that illuminates and improves skin texture and tone for a smoother, clearer and more even skin colour; it addresses hyperpigmentation and skin discolouration by decreasing tyrosinase activity in clinical studies by 50% in 15 days and melanin production by 15.93%.
B
Bakuchiol
Bakuchiol presents a natural alternative to retinol, sourced from the seeds and leaves of the Psoralea corylifolia plant. Its rise in popularity stems from being a milder yet equally potent solution for various skincare concerns. What sets Bakuchiol apart is its gentle demeanour, unlike retinol that may trigger redness, peeling, and sensitivity. Bakuchiol soothes the skin, making it suitable for all skin types, even sensitive and dry, rendering it a versatile choice for a wide array of users.
Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA)
BHAs work as mild exfoliants and have similar effects to AHAs, but with the significant advantage of providing anti-inflammatory properties. Because they are oil-soluble, they can penetrate deeper into the pores of sebum and dirt to unclog without manual exfoliation. As well as treating existing blemishes, they can aid in prevention of future breakouts by neutralising bacteria within the pores before spots develop. BHA’s are used as a key active to fight acne, however they have many benefits in skincare including improvements in skin thickness, barrier function and collagen production. The most common BHA used in skincare is salicylic acid.
Betaine
Referred to as milder than water, is a natural moisturiser, extracted from sugar beets that boasts great anti-irritation and anti-inflammatory properties with long-term hydrating effects, manages the skins water balance and strengthens the skin barrier.
Brighlette
An award winning, marine ingredient that originates from a naturally occurring marine microorganism clinically proven to intervene on various steps of the pigmentation process. This multi-faceted approach in the process of pigmentation supports the reduction of pigment forming, reduces dark spots in size and colour, improves skin clarity and tone and offers the skin a radiant and even complexion.
Bright Oleactif®
An oil-based active extracted from three plants screened for their complementary activities: marshmallow root, rice bran and licorice root. This active ingredient is dedicated to skin brightening and reduction of hyperpigmentation. It inhibits tyrosinase activity, inhibits melanin coloration, whitens, and brightens the complexion and reduces dark spots.
C
Camelia Oleifera Seed Extract
Upcycled botanical extracted from the Camelia Oleifera Plant seeds that boasts antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and foaming properties.
Canadian Willowherb
A wildcrafted multifunctional plant extract from the Northern Canadian Prairies. It has prebiotic benefits, and rapid anti-irritant and soothing efficacy.
Ceramides
Ceramides are lipids that aid in water retention and barrier function. Ceramides keep the skin barrier strong; this is essential in keeping your skin hydrated, helping it to retain moisture and assist the protective skin barrier to function as healthy as can be, preventing irritants entering the skin.
Clear Oieoactif®
An active ingredient based on the sustainable use of an organic thyme co-product. It targets the main mechanisms involved in acne-prone skin and address every key factor of skin blemishes: antioxidant protection of lipids, neutralisation of epidermal lesions, inhibition of inflammatory response, antimicrobial properties, and prevention of hyperkeratinisation.
Collagen
These protein fibers offer essential structural support to the skin, maintaining its firmness and strength. Collagen naturally degrades with time, a process accelerated by UV damage. While there is no proof that applying collagen topically can stimulate new production, certain ingredients like retinol have been shown to have such an effect.
D
Davidson Plum Extract
Contains the flavonoid anthocyanin, which boasts strong anti- inflammatory and antioxidant properties. improves the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. promotes skin elasticity through enhanced collagen and elastin production.
D-Panthenol (B5)
Pro-Vitamin B5 boasts advanced moisturising properties, has powerful anti-inflammatory, calming and soothing effects, supports enhanced wound healing, and calms irritated and sensitive skin. Unlike other common moisturising ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, D-Panthenol has the added advantage of acting as both a humectant and an emollient. Humectants attract to and bind water to the skin, while emollients seal in the cracks in the skin, keeping that water locked in.
E
Exosomes
Exosomes are tiny protein carriers that play a crucial role in intercellular communication. Exosomes are often used to promote skin and hair rejuvenation and repair by delivering bioactive molecules that enhance cellular function and regeneration. This makes them valuable in treatments like microneedling, where they can amplify the effects of the procedure.
G
Gluconolactone (PHA)
Next generation to AHA & BHA, PHA is the less irritant of the acids. It gently lifts redundant skin cells, rebalances sebum production, increases skin thickness, decreases wrinkle depth, helps to repair impaired skin barrier, is hydrating, an antioxidant, can be used on sensitive, rosacea and reactive skin conditions and does not make the skin more sensitive in sunlight.
Glycerin
Inherent in the skin and beneficial for all skin types, this humectant, a molecule that attracts water, maintains the skin’s moisture balance. Glycerin sourced from colourless and odorless plants is commonly utilised in moisturisers to replenish and rejuvenate the skin, promoting a healthy look and feel.
Glycolic Acid
Derived from sugar cane, this alpha hydroxy acid (see above) dissolves the bonds that bind dead skin cells together, aiding in the exfoliation of the skin’s surface and enhancing its smoothness and brightness. Its low molecular weight allows it to deeply penetrate the skin and promote collagen production. However, it’s crucial to be vigilant about sun protection when using this ingredient, as it can increase the skin’s susceptibility to sunburn. This effect typically subsides approximately one week after discontinuing its use.
H
Hemp Seed Oil
Extracted from cannabis sativa plant seeds, this oil is rich in omega fatty acids, amino acids, Vitamin E (a powerful antioxidant), and minerals. It works to diminish inflammation, promoting a healthy, balanced complexion. Crucial for maintaining the skin barrier, it is particularly beneficial for those with acne-prone or combination skin types.
Hyaluronic Acid
Skin thrives on moisture; skin thrives on Hyaluronic Acid. This ingredient is a sugar molecule that boosts skin’s moisture content and minimises water loss. It can unbelievably hold up to 1000x its weight in water and help push water into skin for deeper hydration. It also has mighty staying power, keeping moisture locked in and hydrating your skin throughout the day.
HylaFuse™ Complex
This patented Hyaluronic Acid formulation is utilised in Dp Dermaceuticals clinical skincare. It comprises three distinct sizes of biologically active HA molecules, each reaching different skin layers. This complex is highly efficient, enabling the delivery of various active ingredients deep into the skin. Remarkably, it sustains the supply of water and active components to the skin for up to eight hours after application, even in instances when the skin feels dry to the touch.
Hydroviton Plus
A blend of small molecules that penetrate the skin and restore the natural moisturising factor. This ingredient increases skin hydration and gives instant long-lasting moisture for 48 hours and by 10% for up to 72 hours after one single application.
J
Jojoba Esters
Have a superior stability, provide non-greasy emollience are absorbed into the skin exactly where it is needed. They have a perfect affinity to the skin’s natural oils and are made up of essential fatty acids from the jojoba plant, their oil often referred to as liquid gold. They help skin retain moisture and improve its barrier function. Jojoba is naturally antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal, analgesic, anti-inflammatory and hypoallergenic so it is used to soothe the appearance of a wide range of skin conditions.
K
Kakadu Plum Extract
Australia’s native superhero, Kakadu Plum boasts the highest level of plant sourced Vitamin C, containing 55 times morethan an orange. Its high antioxidant content gives it powerful antiaging skin benefits, to fight free radicals, stimulatecollagen production, inhibit the skin’s melanin production, and reduces the skin’s inflammatory response to light.
Kojic Acid
Derived from the rice fermentation process used in sake production, this substance hinders melanin production. It effectively reduces the appearance of dark spots, melasma, and post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation while promoting a brighter and more even skin tone. Additionally, it offers antioxidant benefits for the skin.
L
Lactic Acid
Derived from fermented milk, this alpha hydroxy acid (see above) serves as an exfoliator, effectively removing dead skin cells responsible for a rough and lacklustre complexion. Due to its surface-level action, it tends to be gentle enough for sensitive skin, as it doesn’t penetrate as deeply as some other acids.
Lipochroman
Offers triple antioxidant protection from reactive species and may aid in detoxification.
M
Mango Enzyme
Naturally sourced mango enzymes digest and dissolve excessively built-up skin cells from the outer layer of the skin to improve skin texture, tone, and brightness. This natural antioxidant rich exfoliation helps to diminish pigmentation, reduce congestion and the appearance of scarring.
N
Natural EGF (Epidermal Growth Factor)
Extracted from yeast, this ingredient elevates cellular activity, amplifying the overall product benefits by harmonising with other active components. It enhances cellular respiration, supports wound healing, and stimulates collagen and hyaluronic acid synthesis. Its effects include smoothing, calming, and soothing the skin.
Neurodefence Complex™
This powerhouse ingredient is utilised in Ginger&Me Neurocosmedics skincare. When applied topically, it enhances communication between nerves and collagen-producing fibroblasts. By neutralising harmful messengers linked to neuro-ageing, it ensures fibroblasts receive positive signals, promoting collagen synthesis for structural support, elastin for flexibility, and hydration (hyaluronic acid). This process reduces visible lines and wrinkles, creating smoother skin and preventing inflammation caused by inactive fibroblasts.
Niacinamide
Also known as Vitamin B3, this ingredient is a potent skin-brightening agent that over time helps to strengthen the barrier function of the skin, reduce pore size, calm acne, fade pigmentation, minimise redness, prevent dehydration and promote a radiant glow. It provides minimal irritation and acts as an antioxidant by limiting free radical damage. As a “cell-communicating” ingredient, niacinamide talks to different kinds of skin cells and prompts them to make newer, fresher and healthier cells that ultimately act younger.
O
Omegas
Omegas, specifically Omega 3, 6, 7, and 9, offer significant benefits for dry skin. These fatty acids provide deep hydration, strengthen the skin barrier, and shield against environmental damage.
P
Papain
Naturally occurring fruit enzyme found in the papaya fruit that is rich in Vitamin A (beta-carotene) that works by gently and effectively digesting and dissolving excessively built-up skin cells as it works as a protease, which is the breakdown of proteins. The digesting abilities of papain work to smooth skin texture, decongest blockages in the pores whilst also reducing inflammatory processes in the skin to reveal a clearer, smoother and more radiant complexion.
Pentavitin
100% naturally sourced, plant derived active ingredient extracted from corn kernels and works by forming a biomimetic shield binding to the outer layer of keratinocytes on the skins surface. This moisture magnet like ingredient has been clinically proven to reduce Transepidermal water loss by 20% in only 28 days. Pentavitin outperforms other well-known humectants as it doesn’t wash off the skin and remains as a water retaining powerhouse to restore skin barrier function, improve hydration levels and decrease redness and itchiness associated with dehydration and sensitivity.
Peptides
Peptides are short chains of amino acids which communicate with surrounding cells to boost skin-restoring processes. They are the building blocks of protein (think collagen, elastin) that are crucial to the appearance of skin. Peptides work to diminish inflammation, fine lines and wrinkles.
Pomegranate Enzyme
Enhances the levels of antioxidant enzymes, as well as skin lightening effects, UV protection, anti-inflammatory action, and wound healing effects.
Protease
Also known as enzymes increase cell renewal by stimulating natural desquamation of the skins outer layer ofkeratinocytes revealing smoother skin texture, a clearer more radiant and brighter complexion. This natural exfoliation helps toenhance product penetration of essential nutrients and other skincare actives.
Pumpkin Enzyme
Naturally sourced pumpkin enzymes digest and dissolve excessively built-up skin cells from the outer layer of the skin and within blocked pores to reveal fresh, smooth and vibrant skin. Due to their naturally occurring high content of food grade Vitamin A (beta-carotene) pumpkin enzymes help to minimise post acne scarring, reduce pore size, eradicate acne causing bacteria, decongest the follicles and deliver essential nutrients (zinc) to the skin. Pumpkin enzymes are also high in antioxidants including vitamins C and E that protect the skin from free radical attack that causes DNA damage and contributes to early skin ageing.
Pristinizer
Extracted from a fragrant star plant used in traditional medicine, this potent ingredient detoxifies cells from environmental toxins, bolstering cell survival. It also curbs inflammatory processes linked to inflammaging, showcasing its dynamic effects on skin health.
R
Retinol
Retinol is a form of Vitamin A, and a very powerful anti-ageing ingredient. Skin cells are better at interacting with it than many other ingredients. Retinol stimulates collagen in the skin, helping to restore, firm, smooth and repair. It speeds up the normal exfoliation process leading to refined skin and a more even-toned complexion. It also stimulates the internal hyaluronic acid in the skin, keeping skin moisturised, hydrated and plump.
S
Salicylic Acid
See Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHA). Salicylic acid is the most common BHA used in skincare.
SK-Influx
A skin-identical lipid concentrate for enhanced skin moisturisation and protection which restores the protective barrier function of the skin.
Sirtalice
An active marine biotechnological ingredient that can help to recharge skin energy and, hence, induce skin protein synthesis improving strength and contraction. It offers an instant lifting and a V-reshape of face contours. Its long-lasting efficacy provides a more luminous and firmer skin.
Snap-8
Snap-8 is an anti-wrinkle peptide (see peptides) that relaxes the look of expression lines. It consists of 8 amino acids or octapeptide that diminishes the look of wrinkles and expression lines by blocking receptors that cause muscle contractions. The peptide will give products a boost for visibly younger looking skin.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate (SAP)
Also referred to as STAY-C® 50, SAP is a powerful, highly stable water-soluble form of Vitamin C (see Vitamin C) that provides the skin with exceptional antioxidant protection by neutralising the damage of free radical attack caused by UV and pollution. Whilst also enhancing skin radiance and evening out skin tone by working as a tyrosinase inhibitor, SAP reduces acne causing bacteria associated with breakouts and congestion.
SpecPed Whiten-1
A peptide specifically designed to prevent the synthesis of melanin, brighten the skin, and reduce the appearance of brown spots. See Peptides for more info.
Symglucan
This oat extract penetrates the skin, diminishing visible signs of ageing. It offers immediate comfort and moisture, enhancing skin firmness and elasticity while shielding cells from UV radiation. Additionally, it boosts fibroblast growth and collagen synthesis.
T
Tremella Fulformis Sporocarp Extract (VIT D)
Tremella mushrooms, also referred to as Silver Mushrooms, are an all-inclusive source of vitamin D (see vitamin D), antioxidants, and minerals. Loaded with Vitamin D this plant extract is a rich source of polysaccharides and has shown an ability to help hydrate skin by binding moisture to its surface. It is a natural Hyaluronic Acid similar in molecular weight with exceptional water retention properties. It increases collagen production, reduces fine lines and wrinkles and its high antioxidant value protects skin from free radical damage.
Trylagen®
A peptide exclusive to some O Cosmedics skincare (see peptides) which stimulates the synthesis of collagen I, II and IV, controlling the dimensions of the fibres and inhibiting enzymatic degradation. The skin is restructured and strengthened and looks younger and smoother. Resulting in wrinkle depth reduction by 29% in one month. See Peptides for more info.
Turmeric
While delightful in a turmeric latte, turmeric exhibits anti-inflammatory properties when applied to the skin, calming inflamed conditions like scarring, puffiness, and redness. Combine it with honey for a homemade mask, but be cautious with frequency, as turmeric may stain the skin.
V
Vederine
Extracted from Chicory Root, this remarkable ingredient functions akin to Vitamin D, revitalising ageing skin cells (Keratinocytes). As skin cells age, their regenerative ability weakens, causing a decline in their movement through the epidermal layers and reducing natural shedding. Vederine enhances this function, resulting in a robust and healthier epidermis.
Vitamin A
Powerhouse ingredient, Retinol is the most common form (see Retinol).
Vitamin B3
Vitamin B3 = niacinamide. See niacinamide for the full run down.
Vitamin C
One of the most powerful ingredients in skincare, Vitamin C comes in many forms, ascorbic acid being the most popular. This potent antioxidant protects the skin from environmental impurities, fades dark spots to brighten skin and triggers the skin to regenerate itself. A key active in the production of collagen and a potent antioxidant.
Vitamin D
Vitamin D is employed to enhance the skin’s immune system, fortify its barrier to prevent moisture loss and dryness, and provide defense against environmental elements. Being a lipid, Vitamin D is readily absorbed by the skin. Unlike Vitamin C, which experts recommend for morning use to combat pollution, or retinol, ideal for evening routines, Vitamin D products can be applied both in the morning and evening.
Vitamin E
If your mum used Vitamin E-infused skincare when you were young, she was onto something. Vitamin E, naturally present in the human body, deeply nourishes, soothes, and rejuvenates the skin. It also acts as a potent antioxidant, preserving other ingredients when combined in formulations.
V8 Peptide Complex®
O Cosmedics has the worldwide exclusive rights to the V8 Peptide Complex and no other company worldwide can use it! The complex is highly regarded among skincare professionals for forging the way in proven anti-ageing results. Found in all O products (excluding the pure C + BHA powder) V8 Peptide Complex works behind the scenes on the essential cell structure to age proof your skin and accelerate healing and rejuvenation, giving you ultimate skin health and skin youth. A potent blend of antioxidants and peptides (see above) designed to fight the five causes of ageing: Collagen Breakdown, Photo Defence (repeated exposure to the sun), Glycation (excess sugar), Oxidation and Inflammation.
W
Witch Hazel Extract
A natural active water obtained from witch hazel leaves. This water is characterized by its astringent and toning action, which helps tighten pores and revives radiance in the complexion. Its vasoconstricting properties improve microcirculation and reduce redness.
Z
Zinc Oxide
This natural mineral provides broad spectrum UVA and UVB sun protection and is a key ingredient in physical sunscreen (in its purest form it is thick, like the sunscreens of your youth). Zinc also has a soothing effect on skin and can be beneficial for both acne and inflamed skin.